Monday, March 31, 2008

Bordeaux Wine

The Bordeaux wine region is made up of 37 parcels of land that are classified separately based on their terroir. I visited two of these parcels, Margaux and Moulis, both of which are in the Medoc region of Bordeaux (a region known exclusively for their red wines). The area is different in that the soil contains a large amount of gravel and stones, allowing for good water drainage.
What I found the most interesting is that in France, is that they insist on letting nature run its course. The soil looked terribly dry, but there are actually laws against watering and fertilizing the vines. While growers can prune the vines, nothing else is done. Our tour guide kept insisting that the poor soil in the region actually made the wine good. While in my previous post I discussed the benefits of France's terroir system, there are also negative consequences in that France is struggling to compete in the international wine market considering other "New World" vinyards do not have laws against irrigation and fertilization.
We visited a beautiful chateau called Chateau Prieure-Lichine. Prieure mean priory in English, the chateau was originally home to Benedictine monks who planted the first vines on the property. The chateau grew four kinds of grapes: Cabernet Sauvignon, Merlot, Petit verdot, and Cabernet Franc which are blended to create the best possible wine. We got a tour of the property and followed the wine process from vine to bottle.



And most importantly a tasting...

Sunday, March 30, 2008

Bordeaux

I just got back from a weekend in Bordeaux and despite it being extremely late here, I feel like I can't go to sleep without at least a quick post.

Traveling to Bordeaux from Paris, I didn't feel like I was in another world. I still heard French and I still ate croissants with my coffee. Yet, you couldn't help but to notice the differences. Everywhere we went, people smiled and greeted us with a warm "Bonjour" or "Bon Soir". Waiters were happy to answer our questions and were often eager to ask us where we were from and who we were voting for. I cannot explain how much I appreciated this.

The city itself was smaller, but still had an urban feel. Bordeaux was much more pedestrian friendly. While in Paris it can be difficult to walk beside one person on a sidewalk, Bordeaux's were double the size and many streets were pedestrian only.

My favorite difference.....the non-Parisian prices. It's much easier to justify paying 1 euro for a can of Coca-Cola, compared to 3 euros in Paris!

The largest church in Bordeaux and one of my favorites in Europe so far:
Great food, great wine, great weather....
more to come...

Monday, March 24, 2008

A Day in the Life

Yesterday, I went with three of my friends to Chinatown. Long story short, I tried frog legs.


I experienced another "first" that night as well... On our way home, we transferred metro lines at Jussieu, in the Latin Quarter. My friend Ye got a phone call her from her mom while we were walking through the station and dropped back a little while she was talking. I turned around to make sure that she was behind us and i notice a man walking behind her opening her purse. I stopped, grabbed her arm, and pulled her aside, away from the man.

You always hear stories about pickpockets, but I never thought I would see one like this. Sure, maybe one day I would get back to my room and my wallet would be mysteriously missing, but i never thought I would see it in the act.

I wouldn't call myself a hero for saving my friend from the hands of a criminal, but I wouldn't mind of you did...

Sunday, March 23, 2008

The Masses in Mass

I woke up this morning around 8:30 am, due to the most annoying pigeon I have ever heard. I decided I would get up and watch Easter Mass somewhere. I chose Notre Dame, I figure where better to experience an Easter Mass, than the biggest, most-famous cathedral in Paris. Needless to say, I was not the only one with this idea:


Upon walking inside, I quickly found that there weren't any seats available. In addition, I found that there seemed to be less people attending Easter Mass, then there were tourists wanting to take pictures of Easter Mass. Sweatshirts replaced suits, people held tour books instead of Bibles, and wore cameras around their necks instead of rosaries. It felt weird watching a church service with cameras flashing all around. After the first part of the service ended, I decided I would leave, but first join the crowd and take a few pictures:


I walked back to my neighborhood and tried again at Saint Sulpice, right next to my apartment. This was what I was looking for. The church was filled with French families, no flashes from cameras, and incredible organ music. Although...I may have gotten baptized, not really sure. The leader of the service walked down the aisle dipping a bouquet of palm leaves into a container, flicking the liquid at the audience. Never a dull moment...

Thursday, March 20, 2008

Terroir

In my class "The World of Wine", we have been discussing the notion of "terroir". While there is no direct translation in English, it is considered to mean "a sense of place". Without going in to too many details, the term is used to describe the effects of the environment on the grapes (climate, topography, soil type, weather). The concept lies at the heart of the French wine industry. As wikipedia can explain, "The concept of terroir means that wines from a particular region are unique, incapable of being reproduced outside that area, even if the grape variety and winemaking techniques are painstakingly duplicated. Winemakers in Burgundy do not believe that they are producing Pinot noir that happens to be grown in Burgundy, but that they are producing unique Burgundian wines that happen to be made from Pinot noir." So for instance, Champagne is not the same thing as sparkling white wine. For a bottle to be labeled Champagne it must come from the Champagne region of France (the case is the same for Cognac, Bordeaux, Port, etc.)

The concept of terroir is highly debated, many people think that this is a mythical term unfairly used to maintain the success of French wines.

Exhibit A:


These two seemingly similar bottles of wine have a price difference of over $500. The only difference being the year in which they were produced. In addition, according to wine experts 2004 produced "above-average" Bordeaux, while 2005 produced "Extrordinary" Bordeaux, the finest in nearly a decade. While I originally labeled this sort of thinking as pretentious, I really respect this appreciation of wine. While it is easy to diss people for spending $3000 on a bottle of wine, these people will swear by the greatness of a certain vintage, describing it as if it was a religious experience.

For now, I'll stick to my 1 euro bottle of Bordeaux. But I have to say that despite the price, i can say for certain that the bottle contains "great" wine. The wine is quaffing, balanced, lively, and velvety. One will notice the aroma of raspberry, green bell pepper, leather, pencil shavings, and tobacco.

Ok...maybe this whole French wine thing is a bit pretentious.

Wednesday, March 19, 2008

My Pearly Whites

Cross-Cultural Management. I have only had this class once so far, but it was by far the quickest two hours I have ever experienced. The professor (a young, Greek woman who spent most of her life living in Athens) took the entire class to discuss stereotypes and culture shock, primarily using stereotypes to make fun of all the students in the class. She claims that that the Greeks feel that they single handedly created life as we know it, French try to make everything sound like it is far more important than it really is, and that Americans like everything big, fast, and easy. Her main comment about Americans was that we always show our teeth, implying that we smile too much.

After making fun of everyone (according to her, in order to discuss stereotypes, you must confront them), we went around the room, introducing ourselves and telling a story in which we have felt culture shock. The teacher started by explaining one of her first experiences of culture shock. She decided to study at the University of Virginia and was amazed to find that the school not only provided masters students with their own office and computer, but even a budget with which to conduct their research. She also told a story in which after asking for directions in Virginia, a man told her that she should go two blocks north. After walking ten minutes she couldn't believe how far a block can be in the US.

Having a degree in Psychology, she went on to explain the psychological elements of culture shock in several steps. While she described the steps of culture shock, I felt like she was talking directly to me or had read my mind over the past couple weeks. First, fun. When moving to a new country, the first step in culture shock is having fun (ie. all of my friends who have made their facebook pictures them standing in front of the Eiffel Tower so that everyone can see that they are having the time of their life abroad, while their friends are continuing their boring lives in the US). Second, fight. As you move further into culture shock, you begin criticizing your new surroundings (ie. "French people are rude", "Why can't they serve coke with ice", and "French universities are the most bureaucratic and unorganized organizations I have ever seen"). Third, flight (ie. me not leaving my room all day, while watching American t.v. show online). Fourth, fit. Becoming adjusted and beginning to really enjoy the new culture. And finally, reentry shock. The shock one experiences when returning home. One realizes that your home country is not as great as you have been remembering for the past 5 months and you now prefer the culture you had originally criticized upon your arrival.

I've certainly experienced fun, fight, and flight, so I imagine I should be arriving at fit any day now. Although I must say, that traveling to Amsterdam did make me miss Paris. On the trip back, I couldn't wait to get back to my beautiful, clean, and exciting home. I have to say that studying abroad can be difficult, stressful, and a bit daunting at times. I have friends that have been hanging out in the "fight" and "flight" stages for the past month, and aren't showing any signs of moving on soon. I have been constantly wondering how people could come all the way to Paris and have so little desire to submerge themselves in a new culture. But after this class, I realized this is because moving to the "fit" stage is hard. It requires putting oneself in undesirable situations: almost missing a train because no one can tell you in a language you understand that your train is now leaving from a completely different station, constantly looking like an idiot in public while struggling to complete the most basic tasks, and having the courage to try to converse with people who not only do not speak your language, but who will never understand your sense of friendliness, hospitality, and willingness to show one's teeth.

Monday, March 17, 2008

Amsterdam

My first attempt at traveling in Europe was a success. Amsterdam was a lot of fun and a great experience. There are three things that stuck with me: Bikes, bilingualism, and the canals.

First, obviously this wouldn't be a blog about Amsterdam if there wasn't a picture of a canal. Despite Amsterdam being just about the most confusing city go get around in (probably because I can't pronounce any of the street names), it really was a unique and pretty city. While the city is filled with sleaze, there are so many quaint little streets that you begin to not mind the fact that you are lost. Second, Bikes. They were everywhere. Defiantly locals' preferred means of transportation, I literally cannot convey through words just how widespread biking is. Not only does every street have a separated bike lane, but they even have parking garages just for bikes:Third, Bilingualism. Amsterdam is a great city in the sense that everyone can speak English. The strange thing is that while they can speak English, they don't, they speak Dutch. It was a strange concept to get used to, if you asked someone if they spoke English, they would look at you like it was the stupidest question, of course they spoke English, DUH! But at the same time, I kept feeling rude asking someone a question in English, perhaps this is a result of living in France where assuming someone speaks English is just about the rudest thing you can do.

And finally, some other pictures. My favorite buildilng:
and the enormous museum just blocks from our hotel:

Thursday, March 13, 2008

Finally, French Friends

My friend Ida introduced me to a friend of her's, Pierre Antoine. He is from Grenoble a small town in the South-East of France. He plays the saxophone in an avant-garde jazz band and studies at the ultra prestigious Jazz Conservatory of France. We switch back and forth from English and French, although mostly English, talking about everything from jazz, philosophy, geography, and current events. Needless to say, I am happy to finally have a French friend. It is rare for a French student to have the interest/patience to hang out with exchange students (especially Americans).

Also, I have to give a group presentation in my World of Wine course. I asked the guy sitting behind me if he wanted to work together and he turned out to be Parisian. Also a Pierre (Pierre Henri). We decided to do our presentation on "The Wine Bottle: Everything but the wine." We will be researching the use of different shaped bottles for different types of wine, different corks, and the labeling of wine bottles. Should be good....

Wednesday, March 12, 2008

Mercredi 12 Mars 2008

Today I woke up, packed my bag, and went out for a day of exploring. I was surprised to see that Hotel de Ville (City Hall) was covered in Israeli flags. Puzzled, I considered asking someone what was the occasion. A moment later, two orthodox men sitting near called out to me, informing me that there were holes in my jeans (all of my pants were dirty except for the ones with hole's in them). Laughing, I took the opportunity to ask them my question. They told me the Prime Minister of Israel was visiting and that because the President of France had Jewish ancestors, the building was covered with Israeli flags as a sign of respect/gratitude. Think I was surprised to see this? Parisians seemed a bit shocked. The two guys (1 French, 1 Belgian) were from Chabad and needless to say, they invited me to Shabbat dinner.

Later, I met two friends and went to Happy Hour at Le Curieux Spaghetti Bar. This funky restaurant is uber trendy, but most importantly has free pizza and olives from 6 - 8. The decor is very interesting, the wallpaper (designed by art students) is brightly colored and is changed every few weeks. Afterwards, we went to Centre Pompidou (the museum of modern art), although no one in Paris calls it by this name. Locals refer to it as Boubourg (named after the street the museum is on). I'm not gonna say that I don't like modern art, or that modern art sucks, it's just that I don't understand how anyone distinguishes between good and bad modern art. I am referring in particular to the canvasses that are either blank or just have a few squiggly lines drawn on them. Some of the stuff was really cool, I just don't get who decides which blank canvasses are worthy of being put in a museum. I also started a new project today. Instead of just taking pictures of monuments and buildings, I would take pictures that capture Parisian life or the feel of Paris. While I didn't succeed today, I did come up with a few pictures that were pretty cool. Click them to see the full size:

Monday, March 10, 2008

Sunday, March 9, 2008

Two intersting photos (of horses)

This is a picture of an ad in the metro. "Horse, how would you like it? Free or roasted? No Horse on my plate!"
And a very interesting display in a clothing store:

Sunday, March 2, 2008

Lagniappe

A clip I took my first week here, but haven't put up yet.

The video was taken from the tip of an island in the middle of the Seine, Ile de la Cite. This photo shows where the video was taken:

Versailles

Today I went with some Friends to Versailles, Louis XIV's ridiculous chateau outside of Paris. I can't imagine this being someone's house at any point. This is a view of the back of Versailles from the gardens:
One of the coolest parts of the castle was the chapel:
Notice anything strange? Let me zoom in:
That's right....to my surprise the writing was in Hebrew!

Here is my group in front of one of many gardens: